Pattern making and grading

The pattern is the garment

Everything downstream depends on the pattern. Fabric consumption, fit, how the garment hangs and how consistent production is all trace back to it. It is also the asset a brand keeps: once a pattern is approved, every reorder of that style is faster and cheaper because the development is already done.

Three ways to start

• From measurements. You supply the points of measure and values for your base size and we draft to them. The most precise route.
• From a reference garment. You send a garment whose fit you like and tell us what to change. The quickest route for brands without a technical background.
• From your own pattern. If you have a digital pattern already, send it and we check it against the fabric and construction before cutting.

Grading

Grading scales the approved base pattern across your size run by adding a fixed amount at each point of measure. The amount is a brand decision, not a fixed rule: a 2 cm grade on chest width produces a tighter range than 3 cm. Width usually grades more than length, and some brands increase the grade in larger sizes rather than keeping it even. We can grade to your rules or propose a grade for your approval. The grading guide explains how it works, and the size chart generator lets you try grade values before committing.

Marker making and fabric cost

Once graded, the pattern pieces are arranged on the fabric width into a cutting marker. How efficiently they nest decides how much fabric the order consumes, and fabric is usually the largest cost in a garment. A better marker lowers your unit cost without changing anything the customer sees. Estimate consumption with the fabric consumption calculator.

Who owns the pattern

A pattern drafted for your style belongs to you. If you move production elsewhere, ask for the digital files. We hold them for reorders, and keeping them with us means a repeat order needs no development.